HELLO PRAGUE (or prag, or praha, depending on the language you speak). an astonishing city, full to the brim with hordes of tourists. this is a city that leaves you with the impression that with every corner you turn, you’ll find something beautiful. my time in prague was spent eating delicious food, wandering around the wonderfully preserved old town, visiting the castle at night, checking out cathedrals. i bought a beautiful amber ring. tried becherovka, this horrible czech digestif made of herbs and who knows what else. walked across bridges and more bridges and ate raspberry tarts.
on the last day in prague, i went on a tour to kutna hora, a small town about an hour outside prague. we took a train, and the czech countryside was super pretty. first, we stopped at a church that was started in the 11th century. it was simple & lovely.
from there, it was just a few steps to the famous sedlec ossuary. what happened was that in the early middle ages, someone brought back a basket of dirt from golgotha and spread it over the churchyard. people believed that by being interred in this space had the same effect on one’s soul as being buried in ‘the holy land’ and because of plagues, wars, etc, came in droves. their bodies were interred for a very short time, only three days, because the space was needed for new bodies, and it was believed that all spiritual benefits were conferred in those three days and that the body would completely rot in that time. after a few hundred years, there were a lot of fucking bones, and eventually someone was commissioned to tidy up the space, and this is how he solved the massive problem if sorting & storing 40,000+ bodies.
after the bone chapel, we headed into kutna hora proper to check out the old town centre & st barbara’s cathedral. as our (small) tour walked past an old man, he smiled and pointed: ‘barbara’. he know what we were there to see.