travelogue: zagreb

zagreb!  hilariously, cruised into croatia riding in an accidental upgrade to first class.   we shared the train compartment with a ukranian familiy, and the first ticket-checkers didn’t notice that both of our groups should have been in second class.  it wasn’t until the ride was almost over, at the croatia border, that one of the stewards informed us of our mistake.  oops. croatian border guards were kind of funny, too, because they checked our passports like three times as we came into the country, and twice as we left! so many superfluous stamps in my passport!

we arrived in zagreb to find a sea of excitement.  croatia had just won a euro cup match, and the streets were full of happy drunks.  we had a delicious dinner, watched the next game, and wandered back to the apartment we rented.

this is exactly what you’d thing. a museum of broken relationships. it was in turns sad, hilarious, poignant.

spent the next day wandering around in the heat. having a mini-breakdown, i ducked impulsively into the museum of broken relationships. i cried and laughed and felt better when i left. it has objects symbolising failed relationships, with a small write-up from the donor. some were really metaphorical, some very straightforward. there were dildos and teddy bears and a little reindeer made of twigs. there was a giant papier-mache nude femals torso, with large breasts and arm straps so it could be worn on the front of one’s body. the write-up said the woman’s husband bought this for her, and made her wear it during sex, because her breasts were not large enough. eventually she left him for this, but evidently not soon enough, because there were spots on the torso where the paint had rubbed away from repeated contact. ewwwww.

because it was so hot while i was in zagreb, i spent lots of time sitting at cafes in the shade, drinking beer or lemonade or espresso. and one day while i was watching soccer, i saw this woman walking her cat. BEST.

maybe it’s just me, but the number of babes in zagreb really knocked me on my ass. and then i was like, why are there so many cute gay girls? and then i was like, OH SHIT THERE IS A PRIDE PARADE AND HOW DID I MISS IT I WAS PROBABLY AT A GRAVEYARD

yeah, that happened. hanging out with dead motherfuckers instead of checking out croation babes.

so, i just spent a couple days wandering around the old town, shopping a bit, eating pastries, drinking coffee, writing in my journal, and lurking in the shade. all in all a really nice little visit! BUT i should tell you about how strange the supermarket was! i took my basket of produce to the checkout, and the cashier sent it all back with a security guard. i was mystified, until the security guard came back with the fruit, which had been weighed/barcoded by a machine. now that is progress (although it completely slowed down the checkout line but i bet that happens fifty times a day so whatever).

catholics are awesomely creepy for keeping around relics and mummies of important folks!

gay pride banners + euro cup celebration = party in the square

i bought so much lavender at this market. sooo much. it was almost ridiculous. BUT for the rest of the trip, my bag smelled heavenly

police lined up before the pride parade. such an important reminder that it is not always safe to be out/show support. i feel very lucky to live in vancouver.

read about the rest of my trip: reykjavik pt 1pt 2, oslo, stockholm, copenhagen, berlin, prague, krakow budapest

5 thoughts on “travelogue: zagreb

  1. haha that kind of thing with the checkout in supermarket doesn’t happen 50 times a day because people actually weigh their vegetable&fruit before they come to the checkout :) you have a couple of machines by the vegetable&fruit :)
    anyway, i looove zagreb and museum of broken relationships is such an awesome place

    1. oh, i meant maybe it would happen 50 times a day because the grocery store was in the train station, so it’s likely that many tourists who are unfamiliar with the system (like me!) would make the same mistake. ;)

  2. i did the same thing in helsinki, with not weighing my produce! eeep! ;)

    also — so, so glad to see the pride parade there, esp. with all the stuff happening elsewhere in eastern europe like ukraine and russia.

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